The sun was setting to the south of the Wasatch mountains on Miller Motorsports Park in Utah.  This was my first entry in a national championship race.  It took months of preparation, considerable expense and a two day drive from San Diego to tow my 944 Spec Porsche to the national championship race.  Now the sun was also setting on my chances of being in that championship race.

The goal is to get both pedals (gas and brake) more level to each other in order to make blipping the throttle more convenient while simultaneously braking (under heavy, medium, or light braking situations).

The situation with the 944 or 951 is that the throttle pedal sits too deep in comparison to the brake pedal.  This calls for awkward or inconveniently extreme foot angles in order to accomplish blipping the throttle while simultaneously braking with the right foot.

What options do we have in order to bring both pedals more level to each other?  A) We can opt for adjusting the throttle pedal forward some, or B) we can lower the brake pedal some.

Although it may be possible to adjust the throttle pedal height, it turns out to be much easier to opt for adjusting the brake pedal height instead.

On 944's equip with factory A/C, a belt runs through the alternator and A/C compressor.  It's not as simple as removing the A/C compressor and getting a shorter belt to the alternator because the belt tensioning is done at the A/C compressor pivot point.  Porsche sells a A/C delete kit which relocates the alternator to where the A/C compressor was and uses the same factory hardware for tensioning the belt.  This is a real nice setup and have the added benefit of bringing the weight of the alternator to a lower center of gravity.  The drawback is the price, about $160 for the A/C delete kit.

This article shows how to make a bracket to pivot the alternator for the belt tensioning, the alternator is left in place in it's original factory bracket.  The tensioning bracket was made for less than $5 (five dollars).