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Motor rebuild questions
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TOPIC: Motor rebuild questions

Re: Motor rebuild questions 9 years ago #19294

  • sfoltz
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  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 12
Well the motor is apart and cleaned up, no surprises, and all looks good.

What piston rings should I get, stock, file to fit (Lindsey), or none and put the originals back in?

And the crank, I've heard of perpendicular drilling (better?) but not sure on the ease of doing so or the real benefits of it. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Sean

Re: Motor rebuild questions 9 years ago #19295

  • cbuzzetti
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  • Endurance Racer
  • 944 Spec = The best racing on the planet
  • Posts: 1192
As far as rings go be sure to use cast iron rings. All rings will have to be fitted. I have used Total Seal in the past but dont know what is in my current engine.
Measue everything to see how close to spec it is. If the ring lands are too worn it can cause a ring failure in the near future.

You can clean up the bores with a Scotch Brite pad. But do not hone the cylinders.

Alot of guys have done the additional oiling holes on the crank. My cars have never had them. It is important to use the 87 and later oil pan and pick up. It has a larger sump. Use Right Stuff around the top of the black plastic scraper/thingamajig to keep the oil from climbing the block.

It is important to keep the oil in the sump. Always keep the oil full to the high mark on dip stick.

Do not over tighten the oil pan bolts. It is only supposed to be at 7ft/lbs as I recall. Check all torque specs and stick to them. Water pumps are expensive but install a new one. Use all new cambelts and rollers.
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Re: Motor rebuild questions 9 years ago #19296

  • Manuel_M
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  • Junior Racer
  • Posts: 65
I used rings from pelican, seem to work fine. I'm not well versed on them though. I did have the extra oil passages added to the crank, seems to be an established upgrade. I purchased an aftermarket water pump from allzim.com, $135 I believe. Quite a rough casting but it doesnt leak and pumps water haha.

For the oil pan I purchased a stud kit. As stated, they are quite easy to strip. However, if I had to do it again I'd purchase the studs from McMaster Carr myself.
(4) 60mm M6
(18) 35mm or 40mm M6 (I used 40)

Oil pan went on easy with the studs. Be careful with all the M6 holes in the block. I ended up having to buy an M6 time-sert kit because several of the oil pump holes stripped even at 6ftlb.

Here are some pictures of the rebuild: imgur.com/a/j9zqc

Disregard the dyno sheet haha. Issue has since been resolved.
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