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Picking a car to start the build
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TOPIC: Picking a car to start the build

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11174

  • Dolfan
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  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 19
I'd like to hear some cost of various engine builds? I've got no clue what a shop would be charging for these engines being rebuilt.

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11176

Generally $3500 to $5K for a complete rebuild. Much less if you do it yourself. Probably $450 for a head rebuild, add another $500 in misc machine work, another $500 in "soft" parts. It all depends what needs to be done.

I wouldn't consider building an engine without doing every possible oil mod - cross drill crank, baffle oil pan, mod oil pickup per rules, external oil cooler, and accusump. I've spun 2 #2 rod bearings and I now do everything possible to avoid it happening again.

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11177

  • Dolfan
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  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 19
I just did a quick online search tonight and was a bit surprised to see that a "rebuild kit" for the 2.5l engine runs about $750-900!! That is for gaskets, bearings, rings, water pump, t-belt, etc.

If I picked up a cheaper car with an engine that has "unknown" history I would think it would need full rebuild for heading onto the track, even DIY on assemble, include machine shop fees for head and maybe block clean-up, purchase kit I'd think that is near a $1700-2200 cost to get started. Just a quick estimate.

Maybe folks aren't purchasing a full kit but just replacing gaskets and bearings and not changing rings?

Starting to think a decent running car is a better option?

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11184

I do at home rebuilds. When rebuilt with new rings it was about $1000 without head work. Head work can be a little as $200 up to $700 depending on if you get new springs or not. Cost of the spring adds up.


Most motors probably will not need rings or valve springs. If you can build it yourself I suggest the following.

New seals, gaskets and crank bearings. Do the crank drilling and oil pickup mods. Put on a fresh waterpump. Have the head welded/decked. I have seen many with corrosion damage in surface. Repair is not hard by a good shop. Keep the stock valves springs.

Now assemnbly it all yourself at home. These engine take a regular engine stand. Put in fresh spring centered clutch disk. This should last 5-6 years so "forever" in race car terms.

Now a "running motor" is better because you know it works to at least some degree. "Making noise" is not great, because it could be rod bearings. Light damage and you can repair it easily when you do the rebuild. The only way to have any idea is to hand crank it. With out plugs the motor should turn freely. If not you may need to replacement crank. You will not buy a new one as they are very expensive. Used are the way to go. They will last as long as they are not damaged from a spun bearing. I picked up a used crank for $80. Best place to get a crank is out a motor with cracked rings and a scored block.

Anyway there are many approaches. The fastest is to buy a complete race car. These tend to be cheaper than building one, but if you are particular about your race car you may find a problem. It probably will not be done exactly as you want it. Thus a 7k "race ready" car may need $2000 in updates to make to your satisfaction. Expect and used race car to still need fresh oil, brakes and possibly belts and a seat. Who knows if the old seat will fit you.


So do you want to embark on building process? Or do you just want to get out on the track and start driving? If you really want the later get complete running race car. Look at a few if possible or let us know what you find and we can help evaluate.
Joe Paluch
944 Spec #94 Gina Marie Paper Designs
Arizona Regional 944 Spec Director, National Rules Coordinator
2006 Az Champion - 944 Spec Racer Since 2002

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11185

Okay-

This post is so good, you sucked me into it!

This is what I am doing - let me know if this is crazy. My current 1987 was my daily driver for 5 -7 years and I maintained it extremely well. I was going to sell it, as the interior was incredible, but I had this nagging problem with never getting around to fixing the odometer. I know I had only traveled about 20k on it in 5 years, but I did not feel confident that I could convince a buyer. So I have decided to use it as the donor car. I know the history of this car since it was almost new.

My strategy is to strip the car as much as I can without taking it out of service (don't touch dash, wiring, doors, seats, belts). I will do nothing to the car that prevents me from participating in DEs. I am attending as many DEs as I can afford in 2011, then over winter, I will turn it into the spec racer - attend schools and hopefully race before the end of the year.

I found a spare '87 motor cheap and I will rebuild it with the oiling changes over winter as well, keeping the stock motor as spare.

What do you think of this strategy? I never seem to see the race cars for sale in time to snatch up the good deals.

One bit of trivia that I am sure that everyone knows about, but I would be remiss in case someone doesn't. I see some '83 cars floating around and I don't want to assume that everyone knows about the updated cam gear bolt. Porsche changed the bolt in 84-85 and increased the torque specs. It was because some unfortunate folks such as myself had the OE bolt back out - bent the valves and ruined the cam and gear to boot. At a minimum, I use blue Loctite when I install this bolt, usually red.

Re: Picking a car to start the build 13 years ago #11187

  • Dolfan
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  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 19
I'm keeping my options open, looking at finished cars but tough to find one within 300-400 miles. So I'm also looking at project cars.

I've found a local car but the asking price is about 10,500 and I'm worried that the cage will not be up to my standards, I hope to look at it in the next week.

Also, I'll be at Rd Atl this weekend running the PDX in my Z06 for some seat time and looking to pad my log book for Trials. While there I plan to walk the paddock and talk with a few 944 folks as well as other ITS/ITA maybe even Spec Miata drivers.

Anyone going to be at Rd ATL this weekend?????

The one thing that does have me a bit worried on the 944 is the engine rebuild kit prices I've seen, I'm used to the chevy v8 world where $300-400 gets you a decent kit. My limited searching shows that cost is double and I'm rebuilding half the displacement? Just an observation that I a bit concerned about parts cost compared to other cars I could consider.

The good thing about going 944 is I can play in PCA events in addition to SCCA and NASA, if I go with another car I'll lose the PCA events on the calendar.
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