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Fuel rails and motor mounts
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TOPIC: Fuel rails and motor mounts

Fuel rails and motor mounts 7 years, 11 months ago #21444

  • tcomeau
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  • Posts: 287
There's been a bunch of discussion re fuel rail cracking and its cause. Yes, the balance shafts could be out of time, but having healthy motor mounts is just as important for reliability of the fuel rail. Good mounts and correctly set up balance belt = minimal vibrations.
Excessive vibration due to bad motor mounts also causes cracked oil suction tubes. Also dip stick tubes if they aren't secured.

Timmy's tech tip # 349.
The engine torques to the passenger side under throttle. If the right side mount is tired or collapsed, it forces the whole drive train i.e., engine, torque tube, tranny, to twist that way. This affects the angle of the axles coming out of the tranny which will affect CV joint wear and HP to the ground. Go to the rear of your car right now and see if your tranny is hanging level or not. If it's not level it could be a bad motor mount up front. Remember to loosen the four 17mm head bolts at the front of the torque tube whenever you change the mounts or the tranny. This will allow the tranny to hang level again, then tighten them down.
Another sign that your motor mounts are bad is if you can see an inch of oil pan hanging down lower than the cross member. YIKES!

Buy GOOD motor mounts:
In my opinion,
1. MEYLE, Hamburg technik, Uro brand are NOT good mounts. They are cheap at around $40 and are typically only rubber, not hydraulic AND rubber. We've had these brands fail in 1 year on street cars.
2. Factory mounts are the answer. (CORTECO is an OEM supplier)These are both rubber and hydraulic and will cost a couple hundred for each side, however, they will do the job much better and for a WAY longer time. Reliability is what we want.

Also, consider that every time the engine rolls to the right too much, it fatigues and even loosens things like the radiator hoses, the engine wiring harness, the rubber J boot to the AFM, and anything else that is attached both to the chassis AND the engine.
Motor mounts are more important than you think!
Good luck for the 2017 944 Spec season!
.
Tim Comeau
SoCal 944 Spec #22 since Feb 2003.
Let's keep building it!
Last Edit: 7 years, 11 months ago by tcomeau.
The following user(s) said Thank You: reflexr

Re: Fuel rails and motor mounts 7 years, 11 months ago #21445

  • AgRacer
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  • Posts: 712
I support everything in this message. A good tech tip and one that I did on my car soon after I got it while I was in the going through everything stage. When I first started, I could actually swing my trans back and forth by hand and had no idea how old the motor mounts were. As hard as it was to swallow, I purchased the genuine Porsche mounts after some research online indicated the cheap ones were garbage. I then filled in the single late trans mount with urethane, and now I have a very sturdy drive train. Not sure I noticed a feel on track since I did all of these improvements so early in having the car, but it gave me good piece of mind in knowing the drive train is properly secured in the car.

I cant stress the point about the cheap motor mounts enough: they are garbage and will fail very quickly.

When are we going to get Timmy's Tech Tip #1-348? Or do we need to be a paying customer to benefit from that knowledge?
J. Stanley
NASA-SE Region 944 Spec Series Director
Yellow #60
Last Edit: 7 years, 11 months ago by AgRacer.
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