Hi all,

I am trying to adjust my rear camber on my track only 87 924S. I am looking for any tips and tricks in doing it.

I do not have a lift but I have a nice level ground. I have a new longacre digital C/C rim mount gauge and toe plates. I was able to adjust the front right where I want to get it to fairly easy. The rear has been another story.

I can not seem to get more than -1.2* of camber

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A previous owner hacked up the front hole for more adjustment [I assume]. I want to max out the camber to -3.0* for the 245/45-16 slicks I am using.

What should the order of operation be? Seems like I am fighting myself.

Take off wheels- loosen everything- put wheels back on, lower onto wheels and the car wants to go to zero camber.

Do I rotate the adjusting plate and lock in first or what?

Thanks,
Pete

Hi Pete, what tire are you running? A real racing slick will not need that much camber. What are your spring rates?
You will likely need about 2 degrees. We run 2.5 to 3 degrees with a DOT race tire and relatively low spring rates around 300 to 350lbs.

I am using Hankook Ventus Z214 slicks. 225/50-16 F 245/45-16 R

Front yellow konis with springs are 500lb and rears are bilsteins 26 mm torsion with 225lb coil over helpers. All adjustable heights


I have -3.5* front camber and -1.5* caster 1/16" toe out


Is there a body height reference from rocker panel to floor height?

What I am trying to figure out is why the forward hole on the torsion plate is so hacked up, and if there is an easier way than just trial and error for rear camber and toe.

Thanks
Pete

The Z214 is a DOT race tire so it will take additional camber but with 500 lbs of spring rate it wont need 3 degrees. 2.5 should be more than enough. There is no exact science to correct camber without lots of testing, checking wear patterns and doing tire temps and pressures.

Set the rear toe to zero first but make sure it is square to the car. If you are not familiar with the process then it may be best to have the initial set up done at a race shop familiar with Porsches. Adjusting the rear of these cars takes time and understanding of how this suspension works.

Ride height needs to be done at the same time as scaling and setup. It is not critical but important, especially the first time. I do not check ride height anymore unless I am having a handling problem.
When I do check it it is done at the head of the caster block bolt on the front suspension and the bottom side of the aluminum mount of the rear cross member. These spots dont seem to move much.

Do you have scales and are you familiar with setting up race cars?
Its not that you cant do this but previous experience with any car would be helpful.

picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/k48lBv52Kp...pFm0?feat=directlink

picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7tt_CpGYGr...pFm0?feat=directlink

picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I9_cEwMvvN...pFm0?feat=directlink

why would someone do this?

is there more of a camber gain in the picture of the one adjusted with my thumb or without?

Pete