The positive is sourced from the ignition switch (any switched pwr will work). The negative ties into DME P1 which is a green wire. I don't remember if it is in the plug by the booster any more but it probably is. You should be able to trace it back.

Well i got the SOB to start today. First time in a couple of months. A good day. Couple of issues though.
1) I have a switch for the ignition. That works fine.
2) There appears to be two wires coming off my starter. One red/black and the other purple or blue ish. I have them both connected to the same starter switch.

When i push the switch, the car will turn over and run. But the starter solenoid will not retract. When the engine is running there is 4volts on the purple wire. I am assuming it's getting power and keeping the solenoid energized. I cut the purple wire and the car starts and runs fine. But the alternator is now not charging. Giving power to this purple wire seems to excite the alternator.

It would seem that the purple wire doesn't' like to be connected to the red/black wire when the car is running. I guess I'm a little confused with the purple wire, its purpose and how to wire it.
On my car the red/black looks like it's a 10-12ga and the purple is 16-18ga.

Hi Seafeye.

Did you get the starter solenoid/alternator sorted out? What was the solution? I am just in the process of trying to start my car after 4 years of sitting idle with a completely stripped down wiring harness, and I having some trouble getting it right.. afraid of frying the DME..

Rich

My car is a 1987 so this may only pertain to this year.

Coming off the starter solenoid there were two wires that ran to the original fuse box. And they had a quick connect half way. One red/black the other blue/purple. If i remember correctly i just ran the red wire to the top of my starter button. Then coming from my fuse box i had a 12v 12ga wire running to the bottom of the switch.

I used another members wiring chart to give me a basic idea of what wires need power to the DME. Speaking of that you really don't have to worry about frying it. There are 3 maybe 4 wires that need 12v power and that is it. The engine wiring harness you can leave pretty much alone. Where the factory put the quick disconnect on the harness right by the brake booster is all you need to fiddle with. I cut the connector off but a better idea would be to leave the connector and chop off after it.

I can't take credit for this wiring diagram. It's great place to start. Because i was using a painless product for the fuses it really didn't pertain to me to much. But it does a great job of outlining what wires need power for the DME>

How do you like your painless kit? I was thinking of also going that route.

Do you have any photos of it and how you mounted it?

Thanks a bunch,
Rich

That was my wiring diagram and I also used the Painless heavy duty 8 circuit setup. I used my own (Longacre) switch panels because the Painless are so expensive. The Painless setup is high quality and uses easy to source locally GM relays. 2 years of racing so far and no issues. I used Del City's heat shrink crimp connectors and Weather Pack connectors everywhere. Both are really nice.