Social Media


Welcome, Guest
Username Password: Remember me

NEW CAR BUILD
(1 viewing) (1) Guest

TOPIC: NEW CAR BUILD

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9272

  • Atteberry
  • OFFLINE
  • Seasoned Racer
  • Posts: 222
click on the link to EASY at the top of the page and give them a call. Pelican Parts is also an option, they are somewhere in Texas.

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9273

  • Atteberry
  • OFFLINE
  • Seasoned Racer
  • Posts: 222
OOPS forgot you can click on Comeau Racing and he may have what you need as well.

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9275

If the long black rod is damaged it is a hard fix to swap the entire rod. The reason is that to remove the rod you need to drop the torsion bar carrier.

I have a sloppy shift rod and last time out it caused me to miss a shift and hit 3rd instead of 5th causing a major over rev and bent valves. I have fresh shift lever, but an old worn rod. I will be working on some improvments to that area.

It make take some time before I get to it.
Joe Paluch
944 Spec #94 Gina Marie Paper Designs
Arizona Regional 944 Spec Director, National Rules Coordinator
2006 Az Champion - 944 Spec Racer Since 2002

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9276

Ken,

The rear linkages usually aren't as bad, but they do vary some, and I did go through rebuilding the rear linkage here: http://www.944spec.org/944SPEC/forum/race-car-build/2589-budget-build-944-spec-racecar-updated-21709?limit=6&start=42

There are lots of threads/options on rebuilding the front linkage on Rennlist & Pelican. That would be good to do "while your in there".
Eric Kuhns

National Director Emeritus

2007, & 2008 National Champion
2011, 2012 2nd

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9277

  • Big Dog
  • OFFLINE
  • Banned
  • Posts: 700
I would guess that the other end of the long rod, at the trans, should be no problem because it is hard mounted to a shaft so it should not wear. Other parts of the shifter at the trans could be worn however and need to be repaired to tighten things up. The front moves on the shaft that sticks out of the shifter and "footballs" as yours has. I had one that was so bad, the shifter was rubbing against the lip of the tunnel hole.

Removing the long shift rod is a pain and it will wear with use. Why not cut the end off and weld on a flat plate, drill and tap it to accept a heim joint fitting. You can use a jamb nut on the heim joint to be able to adjust the length to get it back to exactly where the hole is now. Of course, you might want to mark the shaft below where you will be working and measure to the center of the hole before you cut it off.

You can then replace the "footballed" shaft that is on the shifter with a bolt that has a smooth shoulder to go through the heim joint. That should never wear out and should remove all slop at that end of the system. While you are at it, replace the white cup that holds the bottom. Paragon has them.

Big Dog
Jim Foxx

Re: NEW CAR BUILD 13 years, 12 months ago #9278

  • RacerX
  • OFFLINE
  • Endurance Racer
  • Posts: 351
Thanks guys. Good idea Big D. but I think the hemi joint would have more movement than you think. I ordered a bushing today from Motion Industries and it should be in Mon. Detailed pics and write up to come.

I bought a manual for the car but can't find it. How hard is it to take the trans-axle out with the motor in?

I forgot to add in the handle and shift knob to the total.
$27 for handle and shift knobs.
$4093.99 total in car so far.
Ken Frey #3 944-Spec MW Region

"Racing is life! Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

Check out my build thread!!
www.944-spec.org/944SPEC/forum/race-car-...d/9155-new-car-build
Moderators: joepaluch, tcomeau, KLR
Banner
Time to create page: 0.10 seconds